Road Trip Faro and Tavira, Portugal – June 11, 2022

We were up bright and early (Lynda time) to get going on our drive to the Algarve Region of Southern Portugal. If we had a magic carpet we would have driven all the way to Lagos and seen the beautiful rock formations at the point of land there but, we were under a time limit and not trying to exhaust the driver! So we settled on Faro, taking the toll way there and the secondary road back until we crossed the bridge back into Spain. Getting to Faro was uneventful – Portugal has a really great system for “foreign” plated cars (yes even Spain cars are foreign) where they have an automated toll booth when you enter the country that takes a picture of your car and after you put in a credit card issues you a receipt for your toll account. Then any tolls that you incur, will go onto that credit card – no stopping along the way to pay like in Spain and Italy.

The tollway in Portugal was very nice – apparently the EU had helped fund that road, however to date I have not been charged any tolls yet so I am curious how much our segment from the border to Faro cost us! We drove through Faro towards the marina and were surprised with the amount of tagging that was being done in this town. Some of it tagging that is a nuisance and some of it was beautiful tagging – artwork! Getting close to the water, we immediately got parked in an accessible parking spot that sort of just “appeared” before us! I knew we were in close proximity to where we wanted to be so why not take it! I then understood why it was there – next to it was a knitting and sewing store but it was closed! Darn! Oh well, what would I do with Andrew??? So we walked towards the waterfront and ran into “tourist row” of restaurants and other things like McDonalds (they are still surprising me how unassuming the McD’s are here). We walked around the waterfront and ran into a street market which I just had to check out! I bought my requisite fridge magnet and some tiles that I liked and then, as the temperature was getting hot, stopped in for some refreshments at a ice cream shop where I had a thin chocolate milkshake and Andrew had some coffee ice cream. We then walked back to the car and proceeded along Route 125 which really is like Lougheed Highway along the north of the Fraser River. Cruising along it I saw a random sign for a beach so I asked Andrew to turn off so we could check it out – well what a surprise we got! We drove through what seemed to be a resort of cabins and then to a road with parking (funny enough the 2 accessible spots were free) and a bridge out to what we thought was the beach. So we parked and walked over the bridge which actually took us to a train like the one in Stanley Park – we could walk to the beach – 2 km or take the train – I was free, Andrew was 3.60 Euros round trip. We took the train! What a beautiful beach we ended up at! It had several restaurants, washrooms, souvenir and beach shops and in front THE BEACH. Everywhere were ramps or boardwalks so I had no issues getting around! Going down to the beach there even were beach chaises reserved for people with disabilities and a boardwalk right to the chaise. If someone wanted to get to the water and could not get there in their wheelchair they had the beach wheelchair available for their use! I was amazed! We walked around a bit however as it was blistering hot and we were not prepared for the beach, we decided to go back and continue on our adventure in Portugal! So back to the car we went. Along the way, as it was low tide, we also saw little crabs scurrying around on the mud flats and Tavira in the distance – all those white houses of this area sure stand out and look lovely! So into the car we got and set Google to take us to Tavira and what a route it took us on – we almost drove through some farms the road was so small! However with a couple of turns and patience we were back on 125 and into the town in no time. Tavira was a fascinating town – most of the buildings were tiled! Unfortunately as we drove through it on a one way street, the sun was facing me so a lot of my pictures did not work out. I just have a couple that I was able to rescue. After driving around the town, we were onto 125 again and heading towards Vila Real de Santo Antonio which is right in the south east corner of Portugal – the only way to go is north up to the tollway or east into Spain! So we at that time returned to Spain – so long Portugal and Algarve! Back to the hotel we drove and prepared for our drive tomorrow to Sevilla!

Travel Day Badjoz to Huelva – June 10, 2022

That is my thought for today – 45 degrees outside of the car and 14 degrees inside with the AC fan running almost full speed! Yikes! That is 2 degrees short of the hottest temperature I have ever been in (Uluru, Australia formally known as Ayers Rock)! I did not expect this temperature in Spain, however they are experiencing a heat wave currently – it just keeps waving away!

So let’s get on with today! We left our hotel in Badjoz in plenty of time to go check out the walled city which we saw when driving into the city. We got parked and walked up to the museum which we found was free! Very nice – air conditioned and free! But no elevator… So I checked out the 1st floor while Andrew looked at the other floors and took pictures for me (which I will add to this day hopefully on June 12rh). As the rest of the fort was not accessible and the heat was rising (it was already in the low 30’s, we decided to get out of town and start the 3 hour drive to Huelva. The route that we took is below. Not wanting to backtrack and wanting to visit the lower part of Portugal, I picked Huelva as a place to stop for 2 days so that we could take a day and drive into Portugal. Then we will make the hours drive to Seville and stay there a couple of days. So that is why we took the more direct route to Huelva than the one that went through Sevilla, which was a multi-lane highway. Oh what a ride we were in for! It is a good thing that Andrew has driven lots of mountain roads as that was perfect for this drive. On the other hand, I had to hang on and was unable to knit or do anything during the drive other than take some very interesting pictures – of which half I had to delete! We went up, around, down and over some low mountains – sort of reminded me of a drive that I made with our friends Guy and Leah from Italy to Zurich crossing the Swiss Alps – although those were WAY higher and the road much narrower at times! I will let the pictures speak for themselves. The only sad thing is that we were passed, despite Andrew doing the speed limit (and being comfortable with it) by many vehicles and we ended up being delayed for about 30 minutes due to an accident involving one of those crazy drivers. We did make it to Huelva which is another University city and got settled in our hotel – another AC Hotel by Marriott! These are really nice clean, standard hotels that we really enjoy staying in as we know each time what type of room we will have and what to expect at their breakfasts (which include gluten free goodies)! We went out for an interesting dinner at 9pm a local restaurant and sat on the street and ate some hot tapas which we shared and eventually got back to the hotel at about 10:30pm. It was interesting to see the people change from being locals just wanting dinner to those going out for dinner prior to hitting the club scene! On the way back we passed by what we would use as a tennis court being used as a soccer pitch and quite a competitive game going on! Tomorrow: Drive to Portugal!

Travel Day to Badjoz via Salamanca – June 9, 2022

And we are off! Well, wait a minute, I do not have a fridge magnet yet! That is the downside of checking out a city during the afternoon when stores are closed! So first, the souvenir store! We know exactly where we are going thanks to the hotel and the excellent Zamora map that the city produces! We even found an accessible parking spot just outside of the old city walls in order to make this job quicker and on the way back to the car got some beverages for the trip (well Andrew’s beer will be given to him after he completes the drive). Now we are ready to rumble! Our first stop, which will be after an our is Salamanca where they have, according to the Lonely Planet and some other sources “the most beautiful main plaza in Spain”. We will have to check it out! So onto the prairies we went, flat and straight south to Salamanca we drove – sort of reminded me of the east/west drive on the Canadian prairies! And the temperature was going up, up, up! When we got to Salamanca it was about 32 degrees – up for a walk anyone? Sure! A very short one and this time I am bringing my water bottle! First stop – fridge magnet! Second stop – town square and wow – it was as beautiful as everyone had mentioned – it would also be lovely to see at night all lit up! Now that I got Andrew safely back to the car (he takes pictures of the street sign where we park in case I get hit by a bus) it was 42 degrees inside it! Yikes! Time for some AC! Hitting the highway the inside temperature of the car got down to 38 degrees and there it hovered for the rest of our trip. Lovely we are in the proverbial heat dome of a teal car! It was interesting that the landscape also started to change at this point too — more like Osoyoos again – tumbleweeds and nothing seemed to survive unless it was heavily watered. We were taking a secondary highway down to Badjoz and it was pretty nice – gas prices were lower too! The only challenge was the big trucks and passing them on the sometimes curvy road. We also stopped at another “picnic” area which was basically a wide open parking lot with a few bushes for shade (which we parked next to one) where we ate the left overs from last nights pizza. We got into sweltering Badjoz at 6:30pm and the thermometer here was a lovely 40 degrees at that time! Driving around the city, which seems to cover a hill, there was a small walled area across the Guadiana river which we might need to check out before leaving tomorrow – looks fascinating! When we got to the hotel, a heat wall hit us when we opened our car doors! The AC Marriott hotel is pretty nice, unfortunately walkie could not fit into the first room they sent us to (these hotel in Europe the rooms are small if not upgraded!) so we had to move to a 2nd room however all is good – it is only one night! Cool fact that I just realized – we are within walking distance of the Portugal border! Badjoz sits barely inside Spain! Tomorrow we are continuing our journey south with a 2 day stop in Huelva before moving onto Sevilla!

Day in Zamora – June 8, 2022

Today we spent in Zamora after that long drive yesterday! What a fascinating and beautiful city in addition to being very accessible – ramps and curb cuts everywhere! In the morning we did laundry – how fun! They have “express” laundry where your wash (and your drying if you want to) is done in 30 minutes. Holy smokes the machines hold a lot though! 11kg was the smallest machine for clothes costing 4 Euros. Not to waste time we did a dark and light (which is a new concept for Andrew) and spent 9 Euros (next smallest machine was 14kg at 5 Euros) and were done in 35 minutes! Nice clean facility that was 2 blocks from our hotel, AC Marriott Zamora – the number 1 rated hotel in the city. Then we returned to our “suite” in the hotel and proceeded to air dry all our clothes despite the AC in the room that just would not turn off! Then off we went with the excellent map from the hotel and some hints on where to walk, to check out the town! We are just on the outside ring of the old town so all we had to do is walk into the old town to experience the city. While the city was pretty similar in some ways to Tudela – lots of churches, it was really cool the tiling on the mostly pedestrian streets – the mosaic design. We walked directly from one end of the Old Town to the other and then went down the road (instead of the stairs) to the river walk below where we visited a very old church, no longer in use, and the water turbines which create some energy for the area. They were actually built in the early 1900’s however over time they rotted away and in about 1970 they were re-built again using the designs from the 1900’s (all this I understood from the poster that was in Spanish but some of the words are close to French and I was able to piece some together). Then we continued on the river walk heading back around, past some beautiful bridges – the stone bridge which is very popular and then as the hotel front desk clerk told me (not in any tourist literature) the “Eiffel” bridge which was designed by the same man that designed the Eiffel Tower. At that point, dying of thirst as we had already clocked 10km, we stopped for a drink. Well, I stopped, Andrew had to follow! He had a cervesa and I my standard drink of the day – Coke Cola! In fact I had 2 of them as the bottles were small and the whole thing only cost us 5 Euros – which is so funny as often my Cokes cost as much as Andrew’s beers! Here they were just a single Euro – go figure! Then following the City Wall, we arrived back at our hotel, after making a quick stop for a couple of cans of beer and some sin gluten ice cream for me! All in all an awesome sightseeing day in cooler weather – only about 26 degrees! After taking a break, we found out that a recommended restaurant that also does GF was closed on Wednesday nights so instead we ordered Domino’s pizza as they advertise GF pizza. I was VERY apprehensive about doing this as in Canada I would not order from Domino’s due to contamination concerns with gluten pizza’s. However they seem to have their act together in Spain so I tried it and decided to pick it up just to check out the facility. When ordering I was pleased to see that what I could order was pretty restrictive in terms of items to put on the pizza too. Oh was I surprised! Two ovens and two prep areas! Check out my box and the Celiac program that trained them – I was off to the races to enjoy a wonderful pizza! And it was good! Now off to bed – we have some driving and touring to do tomorrow!

Travel Day to Zamora – June 7, 2022

So off we are going to Zamora – our next stop in crossing the top of Spain (sort of) before we go south! As we were leaving Tudela via the north to catch the toll way (we have previously approached from the south), all of a sudden I thought I was back in Japan! Looking out my window I could swear I saw rice paddies! Sure enough they were! Quite puzzled, I looked up this region of Spain and found out that along with some regions of Italy, they are the largest rice producers of rice in Europe! I will be darned! This area primarily grows arborio rice which is used in Paella – one of their National Dishes and popular in Valencia where we are headed to in a few weeks. Not much to report about the drive other than the toll ways have really nice Service Areas and some nice rest stops! As for the Service Areas, they have a gas station and some type of store or restaurant where you can use the washroom – no questions asked and nothing to pay. The one that we stopped at – again with the giant wheelchair sign which is more like 2 metres by 2 metres at this one – had a nice accessible washroom and in the store, 1 litre cokes on sale – they were cheaper than the 500 and 330ml ones! Go figure! Always happy to participate in a bargain and I was having some issues staying awake as the sun was shining on my side of the car making me sleepy, we picked one up! Andrew pretty well drove straight through until I forced him to take a break at a rest stop – where we observed the trucker ahead of us making quite the meal on his little stove that pulled out from the side of his truck! Quite the set up he had! The temperature was about 29 degrees outside so we stayed in our car, also, this rest stop was not as nice as others – their “rest stops” only have benches – no picnic tables or washrooms and they are just a pull out on the side of the highway – not like the ones in Canada or the USA. And off we went again zooming along at 120 to Zamora! Again, I had a quick nap until Andrew woke me up saying we were being followed by 2 motorcycle cops and what should he do? Ah, nothing, just behave himself and do not speed! In the end, they passed us and then sat behind a truck which slowed down and went ultra slow due to them now being behind him! Once the cops passed the truck we all resumed normal speed for the region. We were on this “bridging” road between the two express ways we had to take at the peak of the route you see below. From a topology standpoint, when we left Tudela, we were in wine country and now we are in flat prairie country – flat as a GF pancake! We arrived at the AC Marriott Tudela hotel without many issues – their traffic circles are a bit different in Zamora – instead of a “circle” you have half circles which you use to turn left and also service roads for the main drags – got a bit of taking used to! I am going to try and get a picture as it definitely it a new way of driving for us! We were pretty tired and did not want to go out for dinner at that point so I tried ordering pizza from TelePizza which was recommended but it was a flop – YES they have GF crusts and are recommended by the Celiac Association however once I got through ordering for Andrew and I (two different pizza’s) and entering the hotel’s phone number if there were any problems, I got a call from the front desk asking if I ordered gluten free pizza! I said yes and the desk clerk said they do not have any GF pizza crusts do I want to substitute? I told him to please just cancel the whole order as I need gluten free. So again, we revert to our back up plan – a picnic on the bed! Good thing we came prepared!

Road Trip – Pamplona – June 6, 2022

One destination that I wanted to check out was Pamplona. Being an hour north of Tudela, it was going to be an easy drive and we decided that we would take the toll way there and then the “picturesque” drive back via Estella (according to the Europe Drive guide, between Pamplona and Estella is “picturesque” and then the secondary road back to Tudela. So the tollway was no issue and we got to Pamplona with no issues – even found a wheelchair accessible parking spot available without looking for one! We parked, paid for an hour and decided to find the Tourism Office which was nearby to find out what was with the parking metre and why it said only Zone 1 and 2 people could park there until 2pm (it was 11am currently) and if it was like other cities we were finding, we did not have to pay at all. Well, this city is like others – ignore all parking signs, if you have a decal, you are free to park as long as you want! So we just left the car and took the tourism lady up on a walking tour we could do on our own. We sort of abbreviated it so that we would end up back at our car instead of cross town! So here are our pictures in two groups – old Pamplona and the wall and churches. Then, from a bulls perspective, what they see (minus the garbage cans and people walking obviously) when they do the “Running of the Bulls” – which is only 800 metres from one end of Old Town into the Bull Ring. On our way along the “Running of the Bulls” route we did stop for lunch and I randomly picked a place as they advertised a risotto meal for 15 Euros. Well, was I in for a treat! I pulled out my Spanish translation card for Gluten Free and the man said he understood and that Risotto was the Primo course and what did I want for my Secondo course? I really just wanted Risotto but it was a two course meal, so I picked chicken which came with apples. Andrew had a sandwich from the display. We were sitting there (I had my back to the kitchen) and out the man came with a round bread in a basket FOR ME! He kept motioning me me to have it and I was aprehensive as NO ONE has ever given me bread that smelled so good before! So he ran and got the bag and sure enough they had baked this bread for me! It was crusty on the outside and pure softness on the inside. You have to have CD to understand what pure luxury this was! Even Andrew said it was good! He got a sample and that was it! The risotto arrived – cheese risotto and it was heavenly and I was full! So I wrote a note to the waiter and he bundled my chicken up to go! All this cost us 19 Euros including 2 drinks and Andrew’s sandwich and we had dinner for tonight! After that, while walking back to the car, it was afternoon siesta time and everything was closed – specifically a shoe store where they had shoes like the ones I had bought in Barcelona – same Made in Spain – but 5 Euros cheaper! I think Andrew was quietly happy that it was closed as no more shoes right now for Lynda! Instead we went grocery shopping and got some replacement supplies for our continued picnics in various places as I now had used Amazon.es and gotten a insulated picnic bag to carry our items plus a bag of ice. The drive from Pamplona to Estella was uneventful and NOT “picturesque” compared to what we have already seen! So we continued south and on that drive it was quite beautiful – driving through combined wine and grain country in rolling hills… That evening we sat on our terrace on the top floor of the hotel and ate my chicken left overs and had some GF lemon cake (from Carrefour) for dessert! A wonderful end to a lovely day as the church bells rang in the background.

Here is the Running of the Bulls Route!

Day in Tudela – June 5, 2022

Oh breakfast me! Check out that FRESH BAKED gluten free bread! All done in its little bag to prevent contamination. Soft inside, hard crust – just what I needed! I saved half for a sandwich later in the day! So today, after our drive yesterday, we decided, also as it is Sunday and a lot of places are closed, to stay in Tudela today and check out the city. What does that mean in a smaller city? Going for walk and exploring the small streets and alleys – what fun! So we set out with our trusty map from the hotel to check out all the cultural sites that they had for us! First, the main square of town, where we had a spot of lunch (garlic prawns) for me and a beverage for Andrew. Now onto the tour! First walking to the church which had an incredibly detailed side door. Next to the church is City Hall. We saw a beautiful painting in an alleyway and followed it to a very old church, still in use, in a narrow part of time. Now we followed the road to the “Three nations” monument (picture did not work out due to sun) however the plaque, which is in Arabic did! I will get that translated from someone I know! The houses along the streets can be quite colourful and it was very interesting to see all the stairs and ramps next next to them (some quite steep!) in the neighbourhoods. Above town you can see that there is a monument up on high. We now walked towards the river Ebro to check out the bridge over the river and saw a huge bird’s nest with a bird nesting in it! Then we walked back into town, through the town plaza and then through the plaza that the AC Hotel was located on. Later that night we went to dinner at Arts which was actually diagonelly across the plaza from the hotel and sat outside and ate a lovely meal – I had a lovely Burrata (cheese) and greens salad where Andrew had pollo (chicken) tacos (which were not gluten free). We then walked back to the hotel on the plaza and sat outside on our terrace for a nightcap!

Travel Day – Barcelona to Tudela, June 4, 2022

On the road again! This time in our cool teal Citron hatchback off we go for the next 5 weeks exploring Spain! Well 4 weeks in this car – no idea what car we will get for the last week as you can only rent cars for 28 days at a time… Vamos! It was a pleasant 5 hour or so drive to Tudela, which was our destination. How did I pick this town? Well, it had a Marriott hotel, it was within the 4 hour (sort of) time range that Andrew wanted to drive, and within an hour were some towns to visit such as Pamplona which we could visit easily. We are going to be spending 3 nights in Tudela, which is also something Andrew asked for – not one night here, one night there as he is the luggage valet in this relationship! So there were two ways of driving there – toll roads or not. We chose the not, until we were forced onto the toll road into Tudela. Sometimes land gets in the way! So leaving the coast we saw beautiful mountains which are called the Montserrat Mountain Range. Very different looking from what we have in Canada/USA. Once we had gone along the side of them we dropped down into what Andrew called the “area around Kelowna” and then onto what we would call rolling prairies which totally surprised us! Lots of corn and wheat being grown! At that time we found the car getting a bit warm inside so I looked at the temperature and it was 35 degrees outside! Yikes! More AC is called for! After we past Huesca, more and more fields were upon us however some started becoming wine vineyards too – we were entering wine country! The temperature outside also dropped to 31 degrees – phew! Now on the tollway my views out the window changed and it became a straight shot to Tudela with one deviation – we got off at a rest stop named Tudela by mistake. The only item of note, which I did not take a picture of unfortunately, is they must have problems with the accessible parking as there was one HUGE wheelchair sign – biggest I have ever seen – about 3 or 4 metres by 3 or 4 metres in front of the building. Really stuck out and looked very funny! Now back on the speedway at 120 km/h we get to the correct exit and how does the exit work? How do you pay the toll? Thank goodness no one was behind us as it too a bit to figure out! Andrew needs to drive in Eastern USA more where there are more toll ways… or read Spanish OR listen to the navigator and have patience 🙂 We eventually got to our hotel – AC Hotel Ciudad de Tudela – which is an old hotel that has been remodeled in the middle of the town. It is really beautiful! We were upgraded to a room with a terrace and it is lovely. We went for a short walk after arriving and had dinner on our terrace and called it at night – we shall see what tomorrow brings us!

Day in Barcelona – June 3, 2022

After having another WONDERFUL breakfast we are off to the Espadrille making appointment and planning on taking the subway – if we can find it! After an hour of walking around not finding the elevator for the station we were looking for and ending up in an incorrect station and the class, which is 20 minutes away starting in 5 minutes, we got into a taxi and made it there – only 30 minutes late! I did let the instructor know that I was having transit issues 🙂 What a fun class and being a person who knits it really helped! I started 30 minutes late and was the first one finished! There were 6 of us making shoes. Andrew was able to sit with me and take pictures of my progress. He was also able to eat the churros and drink the champagne that was brought to the class for me! Then we were off (after purchasing some more leather shoes from the store) and walking to Budget rental, got there just in time before their afternoon siesta! Had a few problems renting the car – the reservation did not transfer over correctly from North America, however it will get straightened out as we now are driving a teal Citron and it is a really fun car! Tomorrow we leave Barcelona on our way to Tudela, which I picked as it has a Marriott hotel and is central to some places that look interesting to visit!

Day in Barcelona – June 2, 2022

My Marriott status gave us breakfast and oh what a breakfast spread they had! They even had GF items out in the open AND each item on the buffet was marked in Spanish, French and English so at least between the 2 last languages I could hopefully get something correct to eat! After not having a full dinner the night before (we just ate some of our goodies from the grocery store) I was starving! Fruit, fresh yogurt, custom omelettes – the works! We took today to relax and I booked a “Espadrille making” class for the next morning (Friday), just before we had to pick up our car in the same area – on Las Ramblas Avenue. We re-arranged our luggage so that we would be only using one suitcase in hotels and can leave the other one plus the duffle bag in the car when the car was locked up in a safe place. Then we went for drinks at the roof top bar (27th floor) where there also is a swimming pool and then gradually moved down to the restaurant on the 14th floor for dinner (once it opened at 7:30pm). They were very aware of Celiac Disease and very cautious with my meal – I had an excellent curry chicken with jasmine rice and Andrew had shrimp done Catalan style. What we did not expect was the amuse-bouche – cherry tomato gazpacho which had gluten in it! So they served me something else which is NOT on my favourite food list – anchovies, peppers and olives! Andrew was thrilled with the 2nd option! Then for dessert, as I have just not gotten over leaving the ship yet, I had to have crème brule however it was not up to my standards – it was not very custard like – fairly runny! However perhaps that is how they make it here in Catalan Spain. We then commuted 3 floors down to our room in the sky!