I never thought I would have the ability to return to this lovely, but remote, destination! What a luxury this time to be able to dock on a cruise ship and visit for the day and check out some of the places that I previously visited when working for the week in February, 1995! It has taken me over 2 weeks to write this – it has been a very hard post to do, however really fun looking back! Enjoy!
The Preparation
Knowing 30 years ago that there were not that many taxis and no busses on the Island of Unalaska, where Dutch Harbour is located, I started looking in about April, for someone to drive Andrew and I around to see the places on Unalaska Island that I remember being taken or walking in the evening. I ran into the new (to me) Museum of the Aleutians which was built near the Grand Aleutian Hotel where I stayed, which offered tours! I corresponded with Thomas (awesome name) and let him know that I had been to Unalaska previously and had a list of places that I wanted to see such as the Airport, Grand Aleutian Hotel, Community Centre, Greek Orthodox Church, Elbow Room bar and a couple of other places too. He said they were all on his tour so we signed up!
It was interesting on the Cruise Critic group that people were AMAZED that Holland America did not offer any excursions for Unalaska! In a community of 4,000 there is no infrastructure provide this – especially for a ship that stops only twice a year. We were obviously on our own! Word of Thomas’s tour through the Museum of the Aleutians got out and the two vans quickly filled with a total of 20 people!
It was like deja vu being back on the Island of Unalaska and also going back through time! I was amazed at how time has stood still on these islands for 30 years except for some minor updates and one “attraction” no longer (more on that later)! We got off the Noordam and met Thomas as planned. As the vans do not have head rests for most of the seats, I had reserved the front seat! I knew another person (Amy) had reserved the front seat in the other van. We were set to go and explore!

Tour of Unalaska and Dutch Harbour
While I took this picture later on in our tour, it gives you a bit of a lay of the land. We came in on the Noordam which you can see above. Thomas picked up the people from the cruise in 2 x 10 passenger vans. Then we started on our tour, which meant we drove past the end of the runway, which I remember having a hard landing on, past the now Safeway and Grand Aleutian Hotel, narrating as we past the sights.
We then drove down the road towards Dutch Harbour and the city buildings, however before we got there we turned off to the right to visit the harbour where the Deadliest Catch boats are tied up when not out fishing or crabbing. It was interesting to see some of the boats that we have seen on TV! None of this was here when I worked in Dutch in 1995!



Next we drove though Dutch Harbour (most people did not know that but I did based on the buildings I saw were the SAME as 30 years ago) and out to the beach area where there also are some old former military installations such as gun turrets and ammunition storage.









“Downtown” Unalaska and Dutch Harbour
Next we drove into the town of Unalaska and past the Dutch Harbour dock to the Russian Orthodox Church. I was keenly watching out for the Elbow room, which was a light blue house when I was last here. The Elbow Room had a reputation as one of the roughest bars in North America as the guys would get off the fishing boats and “let loose”. However Thomas, who has only been living on Unalaska for 6 years has actually never seen the Elbow Room I found out! I noticed we were coming up on the church and we should have past the Elbow room when all of a sudden Thomas announced “there used to be a bar in Dutch named the Elbow Room. It closed in 2007 and was eventually bought by the Mennonite Church. They renovated it and it is now a b&b! I thought this was pretty ironic! More down below.
Russian Orthodox Church of the Holy Ascension
The Church of the Holy Ascension was built, starting 1825, and remains one of the oldest cruciform-style churches in the United States. The collection of icons inside dates back to the 16th century. On the back wall of the church there are a set of 12 calendar icons. Apparently there are only three full sets of these icons from the 1800’s in the whole world, and one of them is here.








Here is a panorama view of the church, graveyard and mini-church area. The church was consencrated in 1826 – 200 years ago!

The Elbow Room
The one thing that I wanted to see, which I was aware was closed before we got to Dutch, was The Elbow Room. When I was here in 1995 it had a reputation as one of the rowdiest and most dangerous bars in America, if you visited during the Bering Sea crab fishing season. I was lucky — it was pollock season when I was in Dutch! However the boys, when they got off the boats that week still partied quite a bit! Note: There are two types of pollock fish in the world – I am talking about the Alaska Pollock not the Atlantic Pollock.
When Thomas indicated that the Mennonites bought the building and renovated it, really intrigued me for two reasons –
1 – the Elbow Room was a raucous drinking establishment when I looked in on it one day about noon. It smelled rank, of booze and sweat. It had no windows and was pretty dark! There was also lots of broken glass crunchy on the floor!
2 – why would someone want to renovate the building with that stench in its bones?
I found that in 2007, after 50 years of destroying lives, the Elbow Room, at 28 N. 2nd St. off West Broadway (sounds exotic) was sold for around $140,000.00 USD. It was then renovated and renamed to Latitudes Bar. As the fishing business in Alaska had become more regulated and modernized, the “drinking culture” that used to happen when the deck hand get off the boats had ended, and Latitudes did not survive.
In 2009, the Unalaska Christian Fellowship church, decided to renovate and re-purpose the former bar from a symbolic “hole to hell” for many families during the wild crab years and turn it into a temporary emergency shelter. While the project faced opposition from local residents due to memories associated with the bar’s past patrons wandering wild, the renovation did take place and Alexandria House was born! It was a local shelter providing housing and resources for the needy, as well as temporary workers arriving in town hoping to secure a spot on the Alaskan crabbing fleets.
In the years since the Elbow Room closed, it is said that Dutch Harbour on the Island of Unalaska is now known for its fishing production as the largest port by volume in North America. Stability is also on the rise: churches are full on Sundays, new houses are being built overlooking the ships in Dutch Harbor, and for me, the amazing thing to see was the streets have real asphalt! It seems though that the Alexandria House ran its time and Thomas is correct – it is now a B&B! I found it on Air B&B of all places! Here are some before and after pictures!


Now, fully remodeled – you would not believe it was a dank, windowless hole in the wall! I would love to stay here other than the accommodation is upstairs! The lower floor is sometimes rented out for events, and if not, the the Air B&B renters can use the whole house!






Unalaska Island Information
While Unalaska Island still has about 4,000 people, which is the same as when I was there, it is still isolated in the Aleutian Islands AND at the mercy of the sea! Ounalashka Corporation, a native-owned business controls most of land on the island.
Known to airlines and Deadliest Catch viewers as Dutch Harbor, Unalaska is the most populated port in the Aleutian Islands. Bigger than Maui and Molokai combined, the 4,000-inhabitant isle offers beautiful lodging, some restaurants, an anthropological museum, nine city parks, three national historic landmarks, a national wildlife refuge and a national historic area. There are more churches in the area today than bars, the schools rank among the state’s best, and it is located closer to Russia than Juneau!
The Island does not have many trees, no bears or moose and has minimal snow fall as it is on the same latitude as Prince Rupert. Dutch, as the locals say, is a real working Alaskan town that’s kind of on the fringes in the middle of the Bering Sea. The island’s un-name comes from the native “Ounalashka” meaning “near the peninsula,” and the harbor’s Dutch moniker reflects a time when a ship from the Netherlands anchored there. While “Dutch Harbor” remains commonly used, the official name for both the island and its town is “Unalaska.” Calling us Dutch Harbor is kind of like calling Seattle – Elliott Bay,” It’s only the name of the body of water.”
Unalaska Airport (DUT)
Getting to Unalaska takes a bit of effort. A few cruise ships call, and Alaska Marine Highway ferries serve the island twice monthly from April through September. Instead of the 737 Combi planes flying like when I visited in the 90’s which took 2 hours, now Saab turboprops fly from Anchorage that take 3 hours! I laughed when I saw this comment on a website – “Landing in Unalaska is like dropping onto an aircraft carrier. Water borders the runway on three sides, and a sawed-off hill rims the fourth. A pilot error here results in either a splash or splat.” I cannot agree more! I will never forget sitting on the left side of the plane, thinking we were going to hit a cliff and then getting bruises from my lap belt from when the pilot suddenly slammed brakes when we touched down! When we went into the Airport, we found that while The Elbow Room may be closed, but the airport bar, is still going strong after 30+ years!



I will never forget my little Samsonite suitcase arriving on this non-carosel along with HUGE bags (hockey bag size) of the workers coming to join the boat crews or work in the processing plants on the island. The sign and welcome has not changed either!

Next we looked out onto the runway from the gate area in the airport and saw some derelect planes that are too costly to remove!






Grand Aleutian Hotel
When I visited for work, I stayed at the Grand Aleutian Hotel, which is an ADA accessible, 112-room, three-story hotel. Its restaurant, has the only Sunday brunch in town and primarily serves MEAT not seafood I found out! It had a great gift shop with crafts from Unalaska’s sister city of Petropavlovsk, Russia! I remember getting an Unalaska hoodie which I promptly lost a few weeks later!


The town wraps around Iliuliuk Bay with the “Bridge to the Other Side.” Downtown Unalaska has a public library, community center, aquatic center and a staffed visitor center. Most homes are modest with trailers, prefabs and refurbished World War II cabanas, many built with coloured sheet metal that have not aged in 30 years!






Fish Processing!
The biggest land-based employer in Unalaska is UniSea, which runs a highly automated pollack processing plant. Fillet from the white fish becomes sandwiches while the rest is ground into surimi that is used in imitation crab and fish sticks. If it’s Alaskan pollack, it came from this plant – it is said that McDonalds and Burger King both use UniSea pollack in their fish sandwiches! In addition to the commercial catch, sport fishing lures anglers to Unalaska. A replica of a 459-pound Pacific halibut hangs inside City Hall. Celebrities who have baited hooks here include Jimmy Buffet, who once performed an impromptu concert at the Elbow Room, allegedly without margarita belly slides. There are a couple of other processing plants too for the other types of crab and fish obtained from the Bering Sea.



Museum of the Aleutians
Museum of the Aleutians is a newer museum which was not present when I visited! The collection is diverse with items such as:
– finely woven baskets
– 1778 drawing of an Unangan woman done by crew member of Captain James Cook
– waterproof parka called a kamleika made from sea lion esophagus tissue
– 1940’s vintage ski
– a model of the Coast Guard’s USS Bear
– numerous World War II artifacts









Aleutian World War II Museum
The Visitor Center of the Aleutian World War II National Historic Area displays information about the conflict and provides a mock up of a communications center with mannequins manning equipment. Six months after Pearl Harbor, Japanese aircraft dropped their loads on Dutch Harbor. Days after the attack, the Japanese invaded Kiska and Attu Islands further down the Aleutian chain. To stifle possible advances, allied forces stationed nearly 50,000 solders in Unalaska. Abandoned bunkers, pillboxes, ammo depots and gun mounts still surround town. We did not go into the museum as it was listed as not accessible, other than I bought a tshirt in the gift shop!



We are now almost done our tour and are driving back towards the ship now along a part of Unalaska I have never seen! After going past the fish processing area, including the housing for the workers, we ended up in the power plant area of Unalaska. The original power plant that was built by the army is still there, however there is a more modern one now due to the electrical consumption needed at times on the Island. Other than the fish processing plants and the community – what could that be? Keeping all that fish that has been caught and now filleted frozen for transport! I did not realize about this! At the yards where the containers are located for the fish packers it is just like when you live in cold parts of North America like Calgary – there are electical posts of outlets to “plug” the containers in!



Next we drove to the “underground” hospital which was a hospital that was built, you guessed it, underground, during the war time. Thomas told us how for many years after that it was used for different things such as training for fire fighters and parties. However it is now condemed and sealed off due to asbestos contamination. After that Thomas pointed out a few more sights, one of which I said – is that still the Mexican place? He was surprised! Apparently it had only changed from a Mexican Restaurant in the last few months. I had several dinners of chicken and cheese enchiladas there – gluten free of course! Shortly, we were back at the Noordam!






The tour ended back at the Noordam, however the lady in the other van from the Museum was told that there were some Canadians on board so she drove us to the dock area in front of the Noordam and in front of the various ships and barges tied up was a Canadian Submarine who is in town! Thought they would fly the Canadian flag, but I guess in the USA you fly their flag….
With a bit of poking around I found out the following – it was the Royal Canadian Navy Victoria-class submarine HMCS Corner Brook that was in Dutch Harbor to take part in a joint U.S.–Canadian military exercise! It seems like the allied forces were testing a rapid Arctic response with subsurface vessels like the HMCS Corner Brook, surface ships like the HMCS Ottawa, RCAF CP-140 Aurora patrol aircraft, and some U.S. Air Force F-35A fighters. The HMCS Corner Brook and the aircraft tracked a simulated maritime threat (the U.S. Coast Guard Cutter Aspen) in the simulated strike. We then walked back to the ship!



Departing Unalaska and Dutch Harbour
ow it is time to depart and head straight south to Hawaii! It was not light out when we arrived at the dock, however we are going to have a great view leaving Unalaska and Dutch Harbour! I am not sure what was going on with the azi-pods or stabilizers or bow thrusters but something was not working and there was an issue getting away from the dock. It took forever! It seems the Captain was wanting to “pull out” side ways like we have seen at other ports, however it was not working. Perhaps the tide or currents were pushing us back? It was sort of like the Noordam was rocking back and forth to get her nose out. All of a sudden a 2nd tug boat appeared going backwards! No idea why driving backwards was going to help us however the Noordam started swinging away from the dock at that point. Then the tug turned around and followed us out of the bay into 5 days at sea to Hawaii!









We had a beautiful cruise past Unalaska and Amaknak Islands which are part of the Fox Island group in the Aleutian Island Chain.

Now, 5 days at sea – what kind of trouble can I get up to? Art, art and more art!












































































































































































































































































































































